This is a legendary left point break. This point break, marked by a single sentinel palm, is one of Indonesia's lefthand wonders. Waves here peel perfectly from outside to inside, barrelling the whole way over a shallow bottom that inspires paranoia but creates record-time tube rides. Indeed, this is not a place for timid or inexperienced waveriders. One Palm Point works best on a good-sized swell, a southeasterly and offshore wind, and at a more medium than low tide. It is ridiculously shallow here, so wear any protective gear you can find - which is excellent advice for any surfer heading for the epic waves of Java.
everything about the whole place is heavy. it's the most difficult wave i've ever surfed. half the takeoffs are late and the barrels are supertight as you pull in so you need to stay real high which isn't easy if you're airdropping half the time... you want a longer board to get in early, but then a shorter one to maneaver in the pocket. i settled for my 6'6 pintail, but i wish i had dave's 6'4. little bit wider than the standard 6'4 potatoe chip everyone rides so it paddles well and a nice little pintail to tighten it up in the barrel. but back to the wave... it's really just shallow everywhere and runs forever getting more and more shallow (if that's possible) the further you get. incredibly difficult backside wave
everything about the whole place is heavy. it's the most difficult wave i've ever surfed. half the takeoffs are late and the barrels are supertight as you pull in so you need to stay real high which isn't easy if you're airdropping half the time... you want a longer board to get in early, but then a shorter one to maneaver in the pocket. i settled for my 6'6 pintail, but i wish i had dave's 6'4. little bit wider than the standard 6'4 potatoe chip everyone rides so it paddles well and a nice little pintail to tighten it up in the barrel. but back to the wave... it's really just shallow everywhere and runs forever getting more and more shallow (if that's possible) the further you get. incredibly difficult backside wave
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